“To put it still more plainly: the desire for security and the feeling of insecurity are the same thing. To hold your breath is to lose your breath. A society based on the quest for security is nothing but a breath-retention contest in which everyone is as taut as a drum and as purple as a beet.” – Alan Watts
Surf Rat
“As hard as you try, as many places as you travel, and as many waves as you have the honor to feel beneath your heels,




